The walled city of Dubrovnik is one of 2013’s must-see places. But I was lucky to get there for a week’s holiday exploring Croatia’s shoreline before the rush. We stayed at the gorgeous Villa Pepe in the tiny village of Trsteno, about 10 miles north of the city. The villa can only be reached by climbing more than 100 steps hewn from the cliff face. But it was worth the effort to step on to the patio and see the clear blue sea, a handful of fishing boats tied up in the harbour and lush vegetation rising up the hill.
The villa’s guests stay on the lower and top floors, while the owner, Pepe, lives on the middle floor. There was no need to worry about privacy because Pepe was a discreet host, appearing only to present us with pots of delicious jam or home-made cake. Downstairs, there was a day room and a kitchen leading out to the patio and pool, which were surrounded by beautifully tended flowers. Upstairs there were three large bedrooms, each with their own bathroom, making the villa ideal for families and groups alike.
